Crossing the border in Argentina was a long time coming! After both of us having several bouts of tummy bugs through the last of Peru and basically our entire time in Bolivia, as well as Belinda getting Shingles and then a cold (just to top it all off) we were counting on Argentina for a lift of our spirits and realise for ourselves all the wonderful things others had been telling us about this country (maybe with a few more similarities and comforts we are accustomed to at home). We also realised for the first time in 15 months that we had to change our 'end destination' when people asked where we were heading. It had always been "Argentina" but now we need to be more specific and say "Ushuaia" as this is a pretty big country.
We have definitely got a sense of the size of Argentina as we continue south. We have cycled through several stretches of between 70 and 100kms without passing a single sign of life, needing to ensure we had enough water to get us through. Some of these roads require us just to knuckle down and do some serious cycling however the persistent head winds (no matter what direction we are going in) slow our progress down to even a crawl at times. Due to these endless straight roads, lack of stimulation, wind and determined horse flies eager to take chunks out of us; Belinda has been driven to near madness but has planned her entire 30th birthday party, including plan A, B and C (just because she can). Roland tends to just stare at kilometre markers or his handlebars or puzzles over where his muscly arms have gone..... oh, maybe behind that scrubby bush over there?
Stuff we are loving in Argentina:
- Camping. Argentina very much has a camping culture where campgrounds are plentiful and sometimes we can even come across a freebie. For example, ACA gas stations often have camping areas with picnic tables, use of showers, toilets, electricity and BBQ area.
- 'Grido Helado' stores. This is a chain of ice cream shops that can be found in almost every town with the best flavours and cheapest prices. Our favourite is the 1/4kg punnet where you can choose three flavours for a $1.50.
- Food options. Although we are still deprived of our mainstay peanut butter, we have been enjoying the quality, variety and availability of deli products. We have been feasting on salami and cheese baguettes, olives, walnuts, fresh fresh fruit, and new types of confectionery (often filled with nuts) and pastries (their favourite filling being 'dulce de leche'). If we were big wine drinkers we hear there are some pretty good drops here as well; particularly in the regions of Cafayate and Mendoza.
- Longer, warmer days. Gets light at 6.30am and doesn't get dark till 8pm.
- Public toilets. They have seats, toilet paper, soap and hand towels. This all seems rather luxurious after Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia.
Interesting stuff:
- Argentina has a short supply of change (coins) and the reasons for this seem to be a mystery (some talk of the bus system and the black market being one cause). Due to this, it is common practice to receive lollies instead of small denomination coins as part of your change. This will happen in small stores operating out of a house right up to a national supermarket chain. Maybe this is better than the Bolivian rounding system where (for example) one egg is 30 centavos, 2 is 60 centavos and 3 is 1 Boliviano, but somehow 4 will cost you 1.30.
- If you have a car to sell in Salta, all one has to do to advertise is place a plastic bottle filled with coloured liquid on the roof.
- Argentina's most loved Pagan Saint is Difunta Correa. While travelling through a desert to aid her sick husband she died of thirst, yet her baby was found alive four days later still receiving milk from her ever-full breast. While cycling we often see shrines dedicated to this Saint with many plastic bottles of water that people leave behind. They do this to pay tribute and to ask for safe travel.
- Having marital struggles? All we do is some magic. Recently Roland was turned into a toad and Belinda was transformed into a cactus. Now we couldn't be happier!
In 10 days of solid leg pumping action we passed by some vineyards near Cafayate and Santa Maria, went through the strange and striking 'Quebrada de Cafayate', and meandered heavenward once again through a canyon smattered with red and green colourings to 'Cuesta de Miranda' of 2020ms. Most days we perspired under the midday heat of the sun through long stretches of spiky vegetation, dust and roads with dips (due to the 'phantom' rivers and streams). But then hitting small towns we would feel refreshed after a cool, breezy break in the lush, green, tree-filled plazas often equipped with a handy spicket to load up on water. These two environments are in stark contrast to one another.
Just to keep us on our toes we have managed to destroy yet another rim. For those of you that are counting: this brings our total to seven. After receiving some support from the Bike Dream crew and a local bike mechanic in Chilecito we did a swapsie-doozie and now have our good front rim on the back and a partly cracked rim on the front. We are now keeping our finger's crossed we can make it to Santiago, Chile where Velocity Rims are sending us their strongest rim ever.