We rolled into Cuenca on a Saturday night and made a beeline for the cheapest accommodation on offer, Hostal Majestic. We had a crazy and wild one...... going to bed early! Over the past few days we had accumulated a long list of chores which needed to be attended to; like laundry, waterproofing our tent and jackets, finding white gas for our stove and lots of other little niggly repairs. We were quite surprised to discover that most shops in this large modern and most beautiful colonial city in Ecuador were closed on Sunday including restaurants, and in the end only managed to hand wash our clothes. Instead we spent a rather tranquil day wandering the streets and strolling alongside the river which runs through the city centre. However we did have a bit of a mission looking for a place to grab a bite to eat that didn't include the ¨Gringo Tax¨ (a term given to items with an overinflated price for foreigners). After some time and thought we finally discovered where all the locals were hiding, at the indoor market, where one can buy fruit, vegetables, meat, etc and a quick meal for a couple of dollars. We particularly liked the juice stands that prepared a variety of refreshing smoothies right in front of you and only cost 50 cents, blackberry was the best - so good!
When cycling in Ecuador all you really need is one gear, "the granny gear" as the road onto Loja continued in an Ecuadorian fashion, hours of 'up' with a few minutes of 'down' that overheated our breaks on many occasions. This was perfect camping territory and we enjoyed many secluded nights with breath taking mountain views and a full complement of stars. The illumination from the moon was so bright we hardly needed to use our head torches to prepare dinner and set up camp. The night before arriving in Loja, our perfect stealth camp spot had an intruder. A beautiful and very affectionate golden retriever popped by for dinner and a cuddle before making his way home to an unknown location. It was a really lovely surprise encounter.
In Loja we stayed with couchsurfing host, Marcelo who had another couple of guests arrive at the same time as us. Fortunately, he had a massive house so it wasn't a squeeze. We had a shared meal that night with Bato (a Chilean guy) making pasta, us making a salad and the French couple (Caroline and Pascal) making a yummy apple crumble for dessert. At first, we thought they were making Creme Brulee maybe due to our sleepy ears after a physically demanding few days or maybe because of their wonderfully thick French accents ( they say "cromble") which sounded very gourmet! We were fascinated to learn how they were going to make this flamboyant dessert with only a few basic kitchen utensils until they started peeling the apples and preparing the top we were like hold on a minute!
Reaching Macará (the Peru border) we were in for a bit of a shock, as after enjoying weeks of the cool, green, mountainous landscapes; we had to quickly adjust to the brown, flat, dusty, windy, rubbish-laiden and hot low land areas that harboured only a few unwelcoming thorny bushes and shrubs.... we've had a few flats since coming into Peru! Roland found it particularly fascinating that we had to wait to be processed at the border due to a power outage. However, while we waited we scored free tangelos from the police that were the most juicy and sweet we have ever tried. Probably, the nicest border control people we've come across this whole trip too as our usual experience is quite gruff and staunch.
The miles started to click by quickly again as we entered the Sechura Desert and with the shortcut on a dirt road to the 1B meant we made it to Chiclayo after three nights of camping. We found the early morning the best time to cycle when it was overcast and reasonably fresh. It's currently the dry, winter season here but we found the sun still to be pretty scorching between about 12 and 4pm.
In Chiclayo we stayed two nights as we had an opportunity to volunteer with The Salvation Army (click here to find out more about our visit). We stayed in Hospedaje San Lucas which was a bargain and conveniently three blocks from the main plaza that was the centre of many festivities, due to Peru's national celebration of Independence. Chiclayo had a beautiful downtown area with modern shops and amenities; with locals wearing fashionable clothing and expensive brands, while eating lunch in a ritzy café. Quite a stark contrast to the past few days of riding, in which we passed shack after shack made from corrugated iron, mud or weaved plant material (much like massive flax mats) and people working the land with not much else to their name but the clothes on their back. Constantly we are faced with this harsh reality as we cycle through a country but it doesn't get any easier to digest.
Now onto Trujillo where the famous "La Casa de Cyclistas" can be found.... but more on that next entry.... ooooo, have we got you hooked?
Lovin' the.....
- Nestlé Sublimes: which are squares of chocolate packed with peanuts. Much like a peanut slab in New Zealand. They are a steal at 1 sol (30 cents) and the size is perfect to feel satisfied but not over indulgent.... well..... unless you buy more than one!
- Numerous makeshift football fields and goals (that in rural parts) we pass probably ever 20kms or so.
- Peru flag (which has a three vertical stripes, red, white, red) at quick glance could be mistaken for the Canadian flag... minus the maple leaf!
- All the political campaigns which have different symbols to help distinguish between the parties i.e. wheelbarrows, chickens, bulls, shovels etc.
- Cyclist from France that we met who is also heading south that cycles in bare feet. BARE FEET! Now that's hardcore!