In addition to the trying weather, Roland’s rump got infected (eww gross!) and our Swiss Army Knife seems to have done a runner on us. Fortunately as we approached Watson Lake, our spirits lifted, as we were treated to a lovely home cooked meal by Susan, Barry and Robbie (the Scottie Dog) Drury.
Having absorbed the magical powers of a good nights sleep, clean clothes, showers and Tim Horton’s coffee, we managed to tack up a Yukon lisence plate in the Watson Lake Sign Post Forest. It is said to be the largest collection of stolen property in the world, with over 7000 signs from around the globe.
Lots of lodges, gas stations and RV parks are now closed and abandoned. For cyclist this means we have to go for longer stretches without potential refreshments, accommodation and warmth. At Donna’s cafe we were blown away by her generousity as she gave us oranges, apples, 9 grain cereal, zip lock bags and juice crystals powder. We even ate a bison burger. Very tasty!
The Liard Hot Springs was a no brainer, as both our bodies were feeling the effects of a solid week of cycling. Shortly after we got our first glimps of a bison, and although Bee initially thought this was a bear from a far, she continues to be a very nervous back seat driver, as we slowly pedalled by. As we approached the Northern Rockies we were treated to some magnificent weather and some spectacular scenery, wild life and climbs. Amazingly we were even tracked down and given some reinforcement cookies complements of Susan and her daughter who just so happened to be driving south. At Toad River Lodge, we treated ourselves to another popular northern staple, freshly homemade pie. This café is the proud home of the most hats along the Alaskan Highway with over 7037 hats and growing.
Once we resupplied in Fort Nelson we were once again ready to face the wet stuff. We cycled long into the night, searching for a place to turn out and pitch our tent. This came in the way of a highway maintainence crew lot, where we greeted the next morning at 5.50 am with loud vehicles and headlights beaming down on our tent. The construction workers thought it was a great laugh!
This stretch proved to be very difficult, as the distances between things were very long, the road was flat and unrevealing, B.C. rest areas don’t have toilets and our feet were rarely warm and dry. Infact we even had to splash out on a cabin, the only time we have paid for accommodation thus far, but well worth it as everything we owned was drenched and team moral was at an all time low. Again filled with a good nights sleep, dry clothes, dry bags, dry everything, we continue down the road with a bounce in our step, knowing Fort Saint John would be reached in a day or two. Yeah that bounce! It lasted about ten minutes before we were right back where we started, cold, wet and wondering what we were doing. Additionally, Roland’s feet smell like rotting musty toe jam festering slugwarts when his shoes are wet! We sucked it up, braved it out, did not talk to one another, listened to our i-pods in the hopes that music may take our minds off the current situation and add some much needed comfort.
After harboring ourselves at yet another restaurant/lodge/gas station for a couple of hours, we would have almost been temped to stay the night with Ron, a gentleman who invited us over for an additional tea and time near his hot wood burning stove.
Roland has written thus far and even though he’s done a real great job writing this entry has had enough so it’s up to his wife to finish up the loose ends for him…..tee hee.
We were glad we continued on though as the weather did clear and meant we could get into Fort St John the next day. Just 40kms shy of town we stopped in at the Sheppard's Inn for a warm up. We were served by two lovely ladies there and wonderfully surprised when they said the bill was settled! Boy oh boy have we just been spoiled on this trip! It was cool talking with them though, as when they first arrived into Fort St John 15 years ago they spoke little English and the first people to help them settle in was the Salvation Army - very cool! Once we got into town, we bumped into a lovely lady at Tim Horton's (it's where all good things happen) and ultimately ended up staying with her (long story). We spent a wonderful night with Kathy, eating scrummy wholesome food, sharing a bottle of red wine and watching March of the Penguins on DVD (really good by the way).
We are now in Dawson Creek which is at Mile ‘0’ of the Alaskan highway. It’s a quaint little town with a bunch more character than many of the towns we have been recently passing through. As I write this we are eating “Dilly Bars” from Dairy Queen and Roland is playing scrabble with one of our lovely hosts here (Dan and Jen). Hey Roland you sneaky creature!
We will add another blog when we get to Prince George (three days away) and include our volunteer work…..
New nicknames (as by Roland)
Roland – “Mash”
Belinda – “Spin”
This has to do with personal cycling techniques going up hills – interesting when we’re on the same chain!
Crib Score:
Roland ahead by two: 22 to 18
What did we find on the side of the road?
· One snorkeling flipper
· Two beach balls
· A baby backpack carrier
· One fancy evening tie
· Orange safety vest
· Chealsea Lee, A pink ‘My Little Pony’ – we will introduce her formally on video in the near future. She’s become an integral part of our unit now. We are like a little family – Mash, Spin, Big Bird and Chelsea Lee all on the road together!
· A snap on Wrench and Phillips Screw Driver
· OR Beanie (this is momumental for Roland as he lost his OR beanie in NZ the day before we left)