Hope you have a nice big cup of coffee for this latest update because she is a woozy. After prying ourselves from all the comforts and conveniences of Morlia we set our course to Ciudad Hidalgo, Angangueo and the monarch butterfly sanctuary, Valle de Bravo and Metepec. As we blasted ourselves into the unknown, we had no idea how physically and emotionally charged the next few days were going to be. Traveling through the remains of Angangueo, a town that was recently ravaged by heavy rains and floods was incredibly disturbing. We couldn`t even bring ourselves to photograph the destruction to buildings, roads, homes and families (22 people died). We were further saddened and troubled to learn that logging in the surrounding area has amplified the force of these flash floods. In many areas of our ascent, complete sections of road had completely vanished and we were forced to navigate through what looked like a dried up river bed. The Mexican military had a huge presence, giving rations of food and water, leading reconstruction projects, directing and re-directing traffic and providing security. At one point they even stopped us, took down our names and advised us not to continue on our planned route. Unfortunately this was after a 2500m (3hr) climb and we had no intentions of turning around, especially since the worst was behind us. After a wait, a flash of our passports and where we had traveled from they wished us well and safe travels.
High up in the mountains past Angangueo is where the monarch butterflies stay for respite from the Canadian winter. It was quite a sight being surrounded by millions of butterflies fluttering around in the warm afternoon sunshine, although sadly many died in the recent storms. At the entrance of the santuary is a make-shift community trying to make ends-meat by tourists visiting the butterflies. We were generously offered a place to stay with one of the families that lived there. They lived in a simple wooden cabin, with a fireplace and mattresses on the floor. It gets to below freezing overnight. It was a difficult and amazing experience for us.
One on-going struggle we are continuously exposed to, which is related to the intimate and unique type of travel only offering by bicycle touring, is having the opportunity to meander through the villages, parts outside the city, places that are less (touristy) and that reflect a certain authenticity of how people live and how things actually are. Many times these sights, smells and insights are extremely difficult to come to terms with. We have also had the privilege to be invited and welcomed to into many many homes from a huge range of backgrounds. As guests, we are extremely appreciative of the hospitality and kindness offered by hosts. I guess cycling and camping along the side of the road (roughing it) gives you a certain perspective about life, how little you need to sustain yourself and how the simple pleasures of a roof, place to wash, a bed, warmth and companionship are true treasures and treats.
Relating this and how people genuinely want to be apart of our cycling experience in some form or another, it`s very emotional and endearing. Having fathers in tears after you leave them and only meeting them for the better part of a day. Knowing that we will never see many of the people you come in contact with again- as they may not have the resources to travel, computers to email or even a telephone. Knowing that you have encountered something very special and memorable.
This segment has also highlighted that working at a marriage is never-ending. Just when we think we are the 'perfect' married couple we hit a pot hole that we dip into and have to love each other out of it again. At times, when we get to a point of emotional saturation, all caring and considerate conversation goes out the window and then requires much reflection and talking an incident over afterwards. Sometimes, during our high moments, we think we're immune to hurting each other but in reality we need to be conscious in our relationship and renew our commitment to one another daily. Big Bird (our tandem bike) is a lot like a marriage. Two individuals with unique thoughts and feelings, moving along on one bike in unison in the same direction. The point is, we are very different people and yet we love each other dearly, even through times when we wish we could saw the bike in half and do it our 'own' way (sorry Big Bird!). However, only moments later we are wanting to weld the bike back together as there's no one else we would rather be doing this trip with. Just keeping it real for all our readers as this ride is a challenge in all aspects of life: it's physical, emotion, mental, and spiritual.
Cycling to Valle de Bravo we found ourselves being accompanied by the Bernal family. Jesus and Tere stopped us for a chat and invited us back to their home (closeby) for lunch. We shared our pasta from our camp pot and they made fresh tortillas with chicken. They were so warm and proud and we felt very priviledged to be invited in. After lunch, the family of six piled into their truck and they followed us 50 kms to Valle. This was a first for us and very memorable. We offered Juan Jesus (Jesus's teenage son) to jump on the back of the bike and I rode in the car. It was quite an experience for Juan and strange for me following behind the bike. It was a tearful farewell upon arriving in Valle and although we only spend an afternoon with them, it has imprinted a firm memory in the minds of all involved.
In Valle de Bravo we stayed with Couchsurfing host, Dilvar and his daughter Jordy. We really liked this beautiful town. Apparently many rich people from Mexico City visit and live there so the Police have a big presence to keep the town safe. It is situated right next to lake, which the views cycling into Valle was spectacular. While we were in Valle, Ellen (our host in San Miguel) and her friend Joanna came down and meet us. We had a meal together at sunset in El Michoacan Restaurante that overlooked the lake. It was so great to see them again and we are so appreciative of Ellen bringing down some mail to us aswell. We hope to see Ellen again at some point down the track; maybe Costa Rica or New Zealand.
Before cycling to Metepec we stopped in at Jordy's school to speak to the kids there. It is a Wardolph school in a rural area and also has an organic, free range farm. We showed the kids pictures, told them a few stories and then showed them the bike. They were a great bunch of kids, interested in our trip, and fortunately understood our Spanglish. We participated in their tradition of having homemade bread and herbal tea for a snack (along with singing a song of thanks) and then we played a few games before leaving. We had a really fun time there. Thanks to Dilvar and Jordy for having us and also introducing us to some of your friends who have similiar interests to us. It was a pleasure.
Immediately leaving the school we discovered our rear hub free wheel was not free, causing our chain to be loose when we weren't pedaling. We managed to get go up two 20 km climbs, however on the final decent only 20 km's from Metepec the chain got caught in the spokes which broke the chain, the cassette and several spokes. We managed to get a ride to our host's house (Celeste, who is a cousin of Carlos, the guy we met in Batopillas who actually lives in Mexico City) on a pick up truck but had to pay a hefty fee for his services. Big Bird is currently in Bike Hospital and being well looked after while we spend a few days in the Big Smoke. Carlos surprised us by arriving in Metepec, and we enjoyed getting to know Celeste and her family and friend, Gabi, eating yummy Pozole, having Mexican fare in a food hall, having water fights, reading books and general all round relaxing.
Mexico City is massive. At night the city lights look like they go on forever. We are staying with Carlos, his Mum and sister (Esperanca and Perla) who are super duper lovely and have spoiled us with delicious meals. Our focus here has been volunteering (see the Salvation Army Journal page) however we have managed to take is some of the many sights here. We took the bus ride up to Teotihuacàn pyramids, checked out many of the huge malls, used the Metro/subway system that has heaps of art and interesting displays to view, went to the skate park with Carlos and checked out his tricks, cruized around town in Carlos's funky silver V-dub, and walked down the main downtown street (Reforma) that has grand old buildings and statues (i.e. Angel of Independance) as well as modern artforms. A new free initiative the goverment has introduced is Ecobikes. There are stations all down Reforma where you can pick up a bike and use it and then drop it back off again. It looked pretty cool. We've also had the pleasure of meeting some of Carlos's good friends, who we meet for dinner and this afternoon plan to go to their school and get our booties wiggling doing Zumba. Then tonight we are excited to watch the soccer match between Mexico and NEW ZEALAND! .....
UPDATE: We lost the soccer game, however fortunately it was only a friendly game. Zumba really gives you a workout but is super fun. Roland and I had one final walk in downtown Mexico and found ourselves being interviewed by a lovely reporter from CNN Mexico. You can find the link on our home page. We stayed one more night with Celeste in Metepec where we picked up our bike and prepared to hit the road again towards Oaxaca City.
What did we find on the side of the road:
* 10 cartons of chocolate milk.....ummmmm chocolate..... quite a good find and very satisfying after spending all day going uphill.
Lovin' the.......
...... way the suburban buses operate here. They are a little bigger than a van and you can get on anywhere (you don't have to be at an official bus stop). The bus driver stops to pick you up even if the bus is completely full. In this case, he leaves the doors open so people can stand in the doorways. If you get on the back of the bus (because it's full) you just pass your money forward (person to person) all the way up to the bus driver. Then your change is passed back down the bus from the front.